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Saturday, May 25, 2013

A Tourist's Weekend in NYC: A Subway Sunday Traversing NYC, starting in Midtown

This summer, my niece Sarah and her husband Adam arrived in NYC for a whirlwind three day weekend. Sarah was 6 months pregnant, and while she's young and in great shape, they weren't really up to walking all over the city, so I needed to give them some guidance on how to see a lot of the city sights by subway--with stops where they could get off and not have to walk to far to a nearby attraction. Since the Puerto Rican Day Parade was on that day, and taking up Fifth Avenue which was right near their hotel (the Intercontinental on 52nd and Madison--highly recommended!), I needed to steer them downtown and away from Central Park. Here is what I recommended they do for the day (and yes--they did it all, except Soho):

Battery Park Promenade

Breakfast/coffee: anywhere east of where you are is best. But you can get across 5th before the parade starts at 11 and if you can go to Le Pain Quotidien   on 53rd and Fifth. They have great coffee and light breakfast items, fruit, etc...a great vibe, one of our favorite places. You can get to-stay or to-go so even if you want to rest and take back to your hotel or sit outside you are fine. Their croissants are great as are their muffins, coffee, etc. However there is another Le Pain Quotidien at 44th and Madison--you'd have to walk south down Madison 8 blocks. Also if you walk to Lexington there will likely be a bunch of cafes and such from 52nd on up. This is a nice place to walk and just experience another part of Manhattan.
Then....when ready for lunch...
Walk or subway 6 up to Serendipity at 60th bet. 2nd and 3rd: They set up for the parade early and it starts at 44th and goes to 79th. It goes from 11AM to 6 PM. But around 52nd ends earlier and most people don't stay there they go to Central Park area once the parade is over. Still it will be completely packed quite awhile (the hotel might know how long). You can avoid most of the parade stuff by staying east of Madison--Park Lexington 3rd and 2nd Avenues--and going downtown for, say the SI Ferry after lunch.  **Serendipity 3:   is at 225 East 60th St. between Second and Third Ave --3-4 blocks east of Madison Ave. You can walk up Madison but if it seems like it is rowdy go up Park or Lexington Avenue. You can walk the 8 blocks to 60th St., and the few blocks east or walk east from Madison to Park to Lexington and 51st and Lexington and take the 6 train  to 59th and Lexington. A few other things here--  Dylan's Candy Bar (this is on the corner of 60th and Third, right west of Serendipity  I mention it was you will pass by here). Really awesome, HUGE candy store run by Dylan Lauren, Ralph Lauren's daughter. Also, across the street is Bloomingdale's--fun for a run-through...you can enter on Third and get out on Lexington Ave.
Then...
Staten Island Ferry  To get down there though you need to take the subway --closest to your hotel, and in general the east side, is the #4 or #5 --which you get at 59th and Lexington if you are leaving from Serendipity--to the Bowling Green stop at the tip of Manhattan (make sure you get off here or you will wind up in Brooklyn!). If you get subway at 51st and Lexington--take the DOWNTOWN number 6 one stop to 42nd St. Grand Central, then switch to the 4 or 5. Once you get off at  Bowling Green, walk south along State Street about 1-2 blocks --the Terminal is a big building with its name on it. If you are stuck ask anyone they should know where it is. Here is a link to the ferry schedule-generally departs every half hour. Sit on right side to see the Statue  when you leave the city, left going back.  I am not sure if you need to change boats going back or can stay on the same one? Anyway there is nothing to see in Staten Island. So you will want to come right back. The trip takes about 25 minutes, each way.
Coming back uptown if you feel adventurous you could make one or two stops, getting off the subway and exploring in the vicinity of the subway stop, so you see another part of Manhattan but do not have to walk too much.  You could take the 4 or 5 UPTOWN from Bowling Green again, get off 2 stops up at the Brooklyn Bridge/ Brough Hall stop, and switch to the UPTOWN #6. This is the local as opposed to the 4 or 5 express and makes more stops. Then you could:
A: SOHO: Shopping area. TONS TONS TONS of cool clothing stores on Broadway. Take the #6 then get off at the Spring Street stop. Walk west along Spring Street across Crosby St. to Broadway.  TONS of clothing shops here. H&M is UP (norht) one-half  block, between Spring and Prince Street. on Bway between Broome and Prince; TopShop is one block more south, between Broome and Grand;  Mickael K is 2 blocks more south, between Grand and Howard St. A few stores down from Michaek K  is a Le Pain Quotidien, if you want to stop for a snack (or if Adam wants to sit here for an hour or two lol. 
If you are in the mod for an awesome sweet and like rice pudding, you can walk a block and a half EAST along Spring to Rice to Riches which sells delicious rice pudding of all flavors. We love this place though it is not really a "sitting place". If you walk one block up from Sprong Street to Prince Street there are some little cafes here where you can sit and have a coffee, all within a couple of blocks. 
or
2: EAST VILLAGE: Take the #6 then get off at the Astor Place stop (which is equivalent to 8th St. There is also a huge iconic Starbucks here FYI when you get off that is a real scene, very lively and fun and filled with students), You could walk east from the Astor Place stop a half block to 3rd Ave, then walk up 1 block to 9th Street, then west a half- block to the Cloister Cafe at 9th Street between 3rd and 2nd Avenues which has a lovely outdoor garden where you can sit and have a snack or even dinner. Very lively and iconic East Village institution. If you want a coffee or drink or sweet, go to Cafe Orlin - 41 St. Marks (St Marks Place is their name for what would be 8th St.  bet. 1st and 2nd)- is a lovely, cute, typical Village outdoor and indoor cafe...cool vibe. Fun to people watch from the outdoor cafe. This is a prob. a better place to stop if you just want a coffee or soda or iced tea. St. Marks Place which is really 8th Street, one block below 9th Street. This is another iconic street, where a lot of the 80s punk movement in the US was cultivated. Walk down St Marks Place for 2 blocks or so, then come back. Lots of cool little places, you can explore a few side streets if you like. If you want a Ukranian food experience at an iconic resturant go to Veselka on 9th Street and 2nd Ave. Pierogis and blintzes,brostch, schnitzel--lots of fun.
or
C: GRAND CENTRAL: the 4, 5 and 6 all stop at Grand Central. It is fun to see and they have an awesome food market inside! Plus a lot of shops, places to eat, large and small: Michael Jordan's Steakhouse, the famous Oyster Bar, etc. It is a huge place where everything stops, from regular trains to subways. Don;t miss the the famous "star" ceiling in the main terminal. You can get out here and just explore here, inside.


Around 6-7PM-Tonys
Tony Awards will be held at Radio City Music Hall on 6th Avenue ca. 7PM Sunday night. Just a short walk from your hotel! Fun to go just for the spectacle of the red carpet pre-event, around 6PM or so. Crowds but it is still fun.


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Subway and Bus: You need to get a Metrocard at the subway station you go to. To take the buses you also need a Metrocard. You can use one Metrocard for 2 (or more) people. Just swipe it twice. Buy the Metrocards at the ATM like machines at each subway station. It adds up to about 2.50 a ride. Swipe it at the turnstyle to get in. Here is a link to a subway map.
And you can also take buses. There are MANY buses that go directly down Fifth Avenue.  Here is a link to a bus map. They are slower than the subway for long trips but they are an easier way to get places sort of nearby as you can hop on them every 2 blocks.

Tour ideas:


Hop On Hop Off NYC tour with Grayline Double Decker bus : $54 pp for 48 hour tickets. This does "all loops" meaning the uptown and downtown parts of NYC. It is a good way to see everything and if you do not "hop off" they are 2-3 hours for each "loop" ( I would only take the downtown and uptown loops).  Downtown and uptown loops departs from 8th Avenue between 46th and 47th Streets. Downtown uperates 8AM-6PM...uptown until 4:45PM. But it is possible you can just catch this at Rockefeller Center. I don't know why it matters where you start come to think of it? Looks like it stops on 48th between 5th and 6th--don't know why you cannot get it there. I will call them and find out. 

Circle Line boat tour (to see Statue of Liberty and lower Manhattan from Hudson River) Enter 12th St and 42nd -Pier 83: Directions $37- 35 pp for 1 to 1.5 hour tours. (not full island tours--those are longer and cost more). Not sure about the wait for this. It might be difficult if it is hot and you have to wait. BUT better than taking the Ellis Island/ Liberty Island boats where the wait is tedious and long and hot...And then there is always the





Stuff to do near you: 

Must see: 
Central Park: link to interactive map Central Park is THE do not miss place. Avoid the crowds by coming before 1PM or so. Take a carriage ride if you want to avoid having to walk (though you miss quite a bit that way it is still lovely esp. at night!). Filled with famous film locations and great beauty and people of all nationalities strolling...it is bucolic and lovely and one of the great wonders of NYC, especially since about 1987 when they renovated the Park and it was taken over by a private company, The Central Park Conservancy. A nice walk from 59th Street would have you enter at 59th Street and Fifth Avenue, walk up towards the CP Zoo; see the seals from outside the zoo; or walk up up Poet's Walk, flanked on  each side by statues of famous writers, west  to Sheep's Meadow, where at the North end  you can grab a bite or coffee at the wonderful outdoor cafe Le Pain Quotidien (great for breakfast or lunch!). then walk up to the Belvedere Angel statue on 72nd Street transverse, then west to Strawberry Fields where the famous "Imagine" fresco is, under the shadow of the Dakota building across the way, where John Lennon was shot, and where Yoko Ono still lives. Then, you can walk North along the west edge of the Lake up to lovely  Shakespeare Gardens, up to Belvedre Castle, and along the back way of Turtle Pond. North is the famous Great Lawn, where all the big concerts are played (and where they still have Met. Opera concerts in the summer).  Oh--try to not miss the Boat Pond which you will recognize from many movies (where people sail model boats)Then you can walk up to Met Museum on 81st and Fifth and go to the Roof Garden (don't pay more than $1 to enter! Their $25 price is "suggested" and people in the know give them a dollar and ask for one. Honestly, they do not care.)
You can also think of a carriage ride if you do not want to walk.  I think they are about $50 not sure I will check. Avoid pedicabs at all costs. They are VERY expensive...I think something like $5 a minute. Check the sign on the back of the pedicab. Take a taxi back home--or the M1-M4 bus.

Other possibilities of stuff to do:
NBC Studio Tour at Rock. Center:  $27 tickets. 30 Rock. Center enter on 49th St. bet 5th and 6th .

Top of the Rock Observation Deck: Entrance on 50th bet. 5th and 6th. A timed ticket is $27 --you can buy online. 

Shop and Eat near Rock. Center: Here is a link to shops and restaurants in RC

Ziegfeld Cinema: 151 West 42th bet 5th and 6th.  It may seem lame to go to the movies when you can do that anywhere but...if you are looking for a respite and they care playing something you want to see, spend a couple hours sitting down in THE most magnificent movie theater anywhere! Huge and soo inviting. Named after Frances Ziegfeld, it was built where the old Ziegfeld Theater was in 1969.


Places to eat near your hotel: There are tons of places to eat, at all price-points. Here are a VERY few that crossed my mind--but exploring and finding something is probably just as fun!

**Magnolia Bakery: Corner of 49th and Sixth.  MUST MUST MUST GO TO THIS!!!!! CUPCAKES!! THE MOST DELICIOUS CAKE! MUFFINS! COFFEE!! Everyone must go here at least once!

**Summer Garden and Bar: 212 332 7620. 5th bet. 49th and 50th.  Open til 12AM on Fri. and Sat. Outdoor cafe-huge--in Rock. Plaza where the skaters are in the winter. A great place to sit and have a drink or have a bite to eat. Menu.

Alfredo of Rome4 W. 49th St. (bet. 5th & 6th Aves.) 212-397-0100 Reviews  Where fettuccine Alfredo was invented! Ca. $50 pp.

Bill's Bar and Burger--16 W. 51st off Fifth Ave. This is a rest. that is part of one of my favorite management companies, BR Guest, so though I have not eaten here I am sure the food and service are very good. Burgers and "NY hot dogs" and such and only a couple blocks from your hotel.

Sarabeths on CPS (Central Park South--aka 59th St): Yummy food, view of Central Park More expensive.

**Serendipity 3: 212-838-3531 (reservations rec. tho you can go and wait, in busy times it can take a half hour or more). 225 East 60th St. between Second and Third Ave --3-4 blocks east of Madison Ave). Luscious sundaes!! Good regular food also. Walkable from your hotel....about 8 blocks north and 3 to 4 clocks east. 12 blocks walk). Sun - Thursday open til 12AM, Friday 1AM, Sat 2AM. Also do not misst Dylan's Candy Bar (this is on the corner of 60th and Third, right west of Serendipity  I mention it was you will pass by here). Really awesome, HUGE candy store run by Dylan Lauren, Ralph Lauren's daughter. Also, across the street is Bloomingdale's--fun for a run-through...you can enter on Third and get out on Lexington Ave.).

Starbucks: Near you there is one on 51st bet. Park and Madison, 52nd bet Park and Madison, and in Rockefeller Center (bet 49th and 50th off Fifth).

Places to eat near Times Square/ Theater District: Here are a very few--the first two are not that costly and should have good food. 

Junior's Cheesecake: Famous Brooklyn cheesecake--yummy! Great for post-theater dessert. 45th bet. Bway and 8th

*John's Pizza: In old church across from Phantom. GREAT pizza and lively but no reservations so you have to wait outside and it can get busy pre-theater.

*Shake Shack: 44th at 8th: Yummy yummy burgers and fries and frozen custard. Very casual.

Hourglass Tavern:  373 West 46th St (bet 8th and 9th). menu (212) 265-2060

Ruby Foos: BWay bet 49th and 50th.  Super fun Asian place, lively, pretty good food for a decent price.

Guy's American : 44th bet. 77th and 8th Ave New Guy Fieri restaurant...huge.

Crumb's Cupcakes: )Desserts only--Obviously!! TIMES SQUARE 261 West 42nd Street  BROADWAY  1675 Broadway (53rd) and 


BRYANT PARK  43 West 42nd St (5/6th Ave)

More expensive Times Square restaurants/ Theater District: 

The View Restaurant (47th Fl) and The Lounge (48th Fl)-- Marriott Hotel: Lounge is open 5-12 on weekdays, til 1AM on Fri. and Sat. Restaurant is open 'til 10 and 11:30PM. 212-704-8900The View Rest. is on the 48th Floor of the Marriott--the world's (?) only revolving restaurant! It is a must see; but because the restaurant  is expensive, prob. the best way, and actually more fun way,  to enjoy the view, is instead to go to the Lounge one floor above the View restaurant on 48th Fl., and enjoy their dessert buffet or dinner buffet. There's an $8 cover after 8PM, and a 1 drink minimum

Glass House Tavern : 252 W 47th St. 212-730-4800  menu reviews

Trattoia Dell'Arte 56th and 7th Ave: not as close as the others tho

Joe Allen 46th bet 8th and 9th Old school NY theatre district Italian.

Recommended museums:
Metropolitan Museum ( 82nd and Fifth Avenue) and other museum links--see sidebar and post below . THE most famous museum possibly ever..see below. For a half hour visit; go to the 2nd floor to see the impressionist galleries-- the Van Gighs, Monets, Manets etc. --then take elevator to roof garden, take some photos of Central Park from above (beautiful)-- and then you have seen the highlights!

Other museum possibilities (tho with limited time not really a priority): 

Museum of Modern Art (MOMA):53rd  between Fifth and Sixth . If you go-- go straight to the Modern galleries. They have Van Gogh's "Starry Night' andquite a bit of great modern and impressionist art. (that said Met. Museum has also...and greater collection of impressionists).  There is other stuff to see but honestly not worth it for s short visit-- and it is a vexing museum to navigate. Don't eat there either, it is a ripoff and very unfriendly.



More to come!! :)

Friday, May 17, 2013

Fifth Avenue walks-- and basic orientation to NYC

Some basic orientation with midtown, Fifth Avenue starting point: 
Fifth Avenue is a great starting point for many NYC landmarks. It is the "marking point" for the division between East and West addresses in NYC. For example. Sixth Avenue (aka Ave. of the Americas) is one block west of Fifth, and the numbers between Fifth and Sixth will range, generally, from 1West to 99 West (50th or 60th or whatever). Any "east" address (such as East 52nd St) will be east of Fifth Avenue. 1-99 East  52nd for example,  will be in the general vicinity of 52nd between Fifth and Madison (the first street east of Fifth).
Streets EAST of Fifth go in this order: Fifth Avenue, Madison, PRak, Lexington, Third, Second, First, and York. For a short visit to NYC, you will not really need to go east of Park for anything of real interest.
Streets WEST of Fifth go in this order: Sixth Ave (kaka Avenue of the Americas); Seventh, Broadway; Eighth, Ninth, 10th, 11th, 12th. Most theatres in the Times Square area are on the numbered Streets between 7th and 9th.

NYC neighborhoods: 
East Village: this is the "hip" area and known as sort of where punk rock started in the NY area, it is still a fun area, lots of cute cafes and ethnic restaurants and such-- but a bit out of the way.St. Mark's Place is probably the most famous location here to start from. On Sixth Street here they have a bunch of crazy Indian restaurants that are a must visit if you like Indian food.
Lower East Side, Chinatown, Little Italy: Honestly not really worth a visit unless you are here for a long time and looking for something to do. Little Italy has shrunk significantly. Chinatown is dirty and noisy. Lower east side has a lot of "hip" places to eat and hear music along the Rivington are, though.
Greenwich Village area: Worth a visit if you can make it. Some of my favorite cafes and small restaurants are here. Lots of music history in the Bleeker Street area. Lots of old homes even from 19th century on the far West Side. Charming but hard to navigate as the streets are not in the same configuration as they are in Midtown. Still very cute area if you know where to go.
Upper West Side: 60th -86th, from Central Park West (CPW) and west to Hudson River
Upper East Side: 60th to 86th or so, from Fifth Avenue to East River



Places to see with a Fifth Avenue starting point (all walkable depending on your stamina--FYI, 20 blocks north to south (these are shorter blocks than east to west) equals one mile).
From 34th St, going North:

  • Empire State Building-34th and Fifth- ((SW side). Just take photos--don't go up! It is hot and you have to walk and wait --frequently for hours. (other places of note on 34th St: Macys is at 34th and Seventh, 2 blocks west. Not really worth it though  Also: lots of clothing stores along 34th Street. But mostly this is a really busy street without a lot of appeal).
  • Grand Central Station: 42nd and Park-. Worth it to walk in just to look at this famous building--don't miss the ceiling! Or the awesome food court! 
  • St. Patricks Cathedral -51st and Fifth
  • Rockefeller Center area -50th and Fifth: Top of the Rock Observation Deck lovely view (timed tickets really the only way to go-$27) 
  • Rockefeller Plaza ( and Today Show taping): 48th bet 5 and 6th: This is where the famous skating rink is and this is where they hold the outdoor Today Show concerts when they have musical acts during the show
  • Fifth Avenue window shopping: Lots of famous shops with much histroy along fifth Avenue including: Saks, Tiffany: 57th and Fifth, and Bergdorf's (57th-58th and Fifth)--famous for its windows and featured in a  new documentary "Scatter my Ashes at Bergdorf's" 
  • Paris Cinema: 58th off Fifth A gorgeous old cinema with eclectic offerings--
  • Plaza Hotel:  right off Fifth at 59th (AKA Central Park South): home of Eloise, famous tea room, and more. Worth just going in and walking through the lobby or going to to the restroom. Downstairs they have an interesting food hall and a yuummy cafe with chocolate cakes etc. \
  • Central Park: Entrance on 59th (aka Central Park South) and Fifth. The ONE PLACE to NOT MISS! Some things of interest: Central Park Zoo esp. penguin room, polar bears, and bird house. Or just watch the seals from outside. Really not worth it for short visit. More to come on Central Park as there is much to see. You can also take a carriage ride and see a lot more without having to walk the entire way.  
  • Metropolitan Museum of Art: 82nd and Fifth: Do NOT pay their "suggested price." Give them no more than five bucks for two...just hand it to them and say "two please". Still this is really a must see even if you just walk in and get the elevator to go to the top of the building. This is awonderful view and not to be missed.